Where do I start?

Here I am, 18 months into being a no poo curly girl and I think I've finally got it ;)

First and formost, I'm talking about high porosity curly hair that tends to be dry.  As crazy and counterintuitive as it sounds, in the beginning, you must brush to move sebum as quickly as possible.  Preening isn't enough on curly hair, we need the help of the brush.  You know water resets your curls, so after brushing you need to drench your curls, then rehydrate them.

Aloe vera gel is great because it hydrates from the inside, out, its awesome.  As well, using apple cider vinegar as a rinse is a great conditioner.  I use it at higher ratios than most because it is THAT conditioning.  As well, it helps the hair cuticle lay flat, holding in the hydration to prevent even further dryness, and making the hair smoother and less frizzy.

Deep conditioning (I avoid my scalp) is important to keep hair hydrated and happy too.  I'll add a link to my DIY styling recipe's.

Extra oil is needed too.  Jojoba is closest to natural sebum, and is lightweight.  For more oomph, Shae butter for very dry hair was a great suggestion as well.

Oiling hair is important, start from the ends and add it in tiny amounts to the hair until you meet the sebum.  If you need to spray or wet the hair, continue doing thus until brushing gets easier and sebum  makes its way down the length of your hair.  At some point, you'll have enough and not need to add.  The brush will glide by that point, especially wet and saturated with ACV.
 ** Brushing curly hair will cause breakage unless its thoroughly hydrated.

Now washing... Depending on how long you currently go between washes, will determine how fast and how easy this part will be.  If you already only wash one a week, this will be easier.  If your scalp is more dry than oily this will be easier because you will be able to go longer and longer over time between washes.  Saturating your hair with water then rinsing with ACV will help stretch these times. Many people only do this...  Its called AO or acid only and it works!!

Your scalp... Scratching gently all over is called scritching, I do it very often.  It helps loosen dead skin cells and keep the scalp skin healthy.  Massaging happens before and after I brush.  To clean or not to clean... I had an oily scalp.  I was able to cleanse only my scalp and do AO on the lengths of my hair.  It depends on how oily it gets, how you feel and what you can tolerate, but I've learned although day 8 hair is crappy for me, by day 10-11 I look like a goddess!!!  I would never have found that out if I hadn't stretched my washes longer and longer.

 As an incentive, by about 6 months in, I was (and still am) washing my scalp every 21 days.

I would not recommend low poo.  I would hesitate from soap bars or any stronger sebum removing wash.  CO right now is an option, it may make transitioning and going longer between washes easier, but survey says, AO, CO, henna only and my personal favorite, shikakai as  washes are in 90% of curly success stories!!!

Here's what works for me, 50%/50% ACV and flat ironing to last 21 days - yes! I'm serious!

This is my hair story :)

Shikakai washing

I get my shikajai from a local Indian grocery store.  I pay $2.99 for 100g and it lasts me 3-4 washes.  I only wash once every 3 weeks so this lasts me a long time.

I put my powder (maybe 1/3 cup of powder or even less) in an old stocking.  I add warm water in a cup with the stocking in it and squeeze and squeeze.  Because my curly hair holds the teeny tiny grains from the shikakai and I can't brush my curls once dry, this makes me happier.  I then put the liquid in the same squirt bottle as I will put my acid rinse and squirt it all over. In the shower on wet hair (a choice)  I massage the scalp and behind the ears lol  and rinse.  I also rinse out that stocking for use again ;)

I do use my ACV (apple cider vinegar) acid rinse after because my hair loves it!!!!  Shikakai alone doesn't need an acid rinse though, it is already ph balanced for hair and scalp.

Some people add a little Amla for shine or reetha/soapnuts for extra cleansing in their shikakai wash.

I also detangle with a wide tooth comb with the ACV soaked hair.

I do the same after henna.  I mermaid rinse soaking in the tub for some time getting as much henna out, then standing shower rinse again with water.  I only use water to rinse out my henna.  I add my ACV mix and verrrrryyyy gently detangle with a wide toothed comb with ACV still in.  Then rinse again, and repeat as needed.

I plop to dry after that.

Basically, I wash with shikakai or use henna as a wash since I'm only washing once every 3 weeks.

I do have a low poo on hand for hairdresser visits though ;)

My Hair Story

Once upon a time, I thought my curly hair looked great!  Not!  It was a nest!

Then I started highlighting, using expensive products to combat the dryness and damage and getting $200 haircuts (plus tip) to get volume and enhance the curls I was blessed with.  I won't ever regret SAVING the thousands I'd spend on products as well!!

Now, I'm pretty happy with the versatility of my hair.  I'm even more happy with how little I have to do and spend for a healthy scalp and head of hair!

Above is in March, after a long, cold, dry winter 20 months low and now no poo.  This is 2 weeks after henna with 2tbsp of coconut milk as my wash, rinsed with only water, then a week later, flat ironed on medium heat and a little jojoba oil added.

 

This is 28 days after a henna only wash and 54 days since I washed with shikakai & deep conditioned my hair.  This is sebum nourished hair, no dryness, no smell, NO WATER!!! All I do is brush, and very VERY occasionally, as in once before an event, I used pure cocoa powder as a dry shampoo dusted on my three finger tips dabbed on the scalp and brushed out really well to absorb a little sebum to give my roots a little lift.

It looks flat, it is.  It's heavier than I'm used to but softer than baby hair, and super healthy!!  I'm trying to get sebum to make even my ends that soft and healthy before my next wash.   I do nothing but brush - That's pretty much it!  We call this Sebum Only (SO).  But I couldn't maintain it more than 44 days straight.  I needed a deep conditioning by then.

Here are pictures going back in time over the last 15+ months from current pics to back when I started... You'll notice the sebum coated hair appeared thinner, but it was really the dry, damaged cuticle being healed! I do use heat to straighten my hair one week after washing though, it helps me brush and maintain it. For a special event, I'll wash with water and apple cider vinegar and roller set my hair.

Note:  I wash and wear curly for a week using aloe vera gel for hydration and slight hold.  On day 7, I gently flat iron my hair on medium heat in very small sections leaving the last 2-3 inches untouched.  When finished, I use the flat iron on those ends to curve under.  It's then 2 more weeks of daily brushing before I wash again.  

I'm on a 21 day wash cycle.

 The pics toward the end are still back when it was damaged, requiring regular deep conditioning as I experimented with wash methods.

 

And when my love of henna began...

And here's where it all started, dry, frizzy and damaged.

I can wear it straight, wavy, curly, up or down and my hair has never been more healthy or hydrated!

I love being 18+ months no poo!

44 days!!!

I can't believe I just washed.  I can't believe I caved.  I can't believe I didn't make sure the shikakai was thoroughly dissolved.  Omg!  Its been so long I forgot!!!

Last night I took the kids out for Halloween and it was raining and all I could think was what will my hair smell like if it gets wet?  I work with kids so if I had a stinky wet head, they'd be sure to tell me over and over again!

I passed my 28 day "i guess im on a roll" and my 40 day "I'm tired of this" phase and the 41 day "I think I might have broke the record" which wasn't a goal but was fun.  And I hit day 44 on a Saturday - today.

When the warm water hit my hair it seriously was buttery with sebum on top, it quickly changed texture when the shikakai was applied.

So some reflections...

Make sure the shikakai is fully dissolved before dumping it on your head.  I've got little grains in my hair still after 20 minutes in the shower.

I forgot how much my hair looooves 50/50% ACV.  It just lifted into waves, became fuller and softer immediately.  I think I may skip the shikakai in the future and just do AO.

I still look forward to henna as a wash.  I have an event this month so will likely henna on Nov 15 so I will have my best hair on the 29th.  Maybe I'll leave these silly shikakai grains in for 2 weeks until henna.  No point upsetting my hair with another rinse.  My hair doesn't like water.

I wonder what my curl definition will look like with sebum thoroughly from root to tip?

I totally could've gone longer.

On that I need to:

Brush every day, sometimes great hair days made me lazy and I barely brush but  then I'd smell a slightly sour smell the next day.  A good BBB fixed any smell but as I said, I was anxious about getting my hair wet as a result.

I'll make sure my daughter doesn't use my brush since she does have some Shae Moisture smoothie she uses.  I'm guessing that the product on my brush deposited in my hair may have added to the sour smell.

I'll consider getting another brush.  My padded base brush takes more than a day to dry a which was an excuse at times to finger brush instead of BBB... Another reason for the sour smell at times. Lol... I'm not convinced that SO means my hair has a slightly sour smell - there's always a reason.

Note: my daughter didn't smell the sour smell I'm mentioning.  I became hyper sensitive to how my hair smells.  I can smell EOs up to 4 days after when I only add 3 drops!!!

All in all... Yeah, I'd do it again :)

No Water for 44 days....

Its sheer lazyness now why I haven't washed my hair.  I'll go crazy curly for Halloween so that will be my next wash.

Limp, lifeless, wig- like but buttery soft.

CO Washing Experiment

I've been using low poo conditioner only due to swimming every evening  and setting up my classroom on my own, moving stuff, sweating without air conditioning... Drama!!  As a result,  I've been wetting my hair almost daily!!  I'm not brushing at all, just Scritching and I'm surprised at how sebum can move with just hot water and a wide tooth comb. I knew conditioner only washing worked in principal, (like the oil cleansing method) that's why I chose to do it but, I am producing so little sebum though it makes sense that this would never have worked before I regulated my sebum production.  I spent a good solid 9 mos washing only my scalp and ACV all over, brushing daily and using a flat iron on my curly hair.

My hair today is dry, but soft.  It misses the 50/50% apple cider vinegar:water pH balancing conditioning rinse I think.  It no longer has that sebum smell when I wet it in the pool, not that I minded it but after 21 days without a wash, it did smell different than dry hair.

I also think when I was brushing sebum I'd know where and when to add oil so my hair never got dry and my ends were lovely.

Now I worry about split ends and its only been... Two weeks!  I look forward to going back to my usual routine!!  I miss my sebum hair!!

I'll also roller set rather than flat iron because I get way more volume for way longer and I can do the roller set mid wash cycle so AO (ACV:water conditioning) only is the way to go for me!!   I'm guessing once things settle I'll wash or rather henna once a month and AO mid month.  We'll see what winter hair will be like as I hit my 14 monthiversary poo less!

Smelly??

Have no fear!  Your sebum is coming in, you feel oily... and you're well on your way, great job!! This us GREAT!!

Brush your hair.  Really thoroughly. Like this. Do this every single day. For today though, follow with a nice hot shower to help melt the sebum, massage, preen, just do it.  I personally have a fine toothed comb I use to help comb the sebum, scritch here and there, work it girl!!

Follow with an acid rinse if you want, I find it helps a little to cut smell, sebum, not sure, but I like it with WO.  We call this AO (acid rinse wash)

Out of the shower, your hair is completely detangled, use this time to add some (essential oil) EO diluted in water, spray all over... Or... Add aloe vera gel to the scalp if needed for dryness and it's always a great deodorizer... Or just apply a few drops of EOs in your favorite oil directly to the length of the hair. Don't forget the ends!!  And not too much. Brush or comb it through, it moves the debris from the scalp and from the hair on to your brush and that prevents bacteria making the scalp smelly.

 Wash your brush so its clean for tomorrow.

Dry however you dry it. (Plop to get the best curls)

Ta daa!  No sebum at the scalp means no smellies!  The sebum has moved away from the scalp down the length of the hair, and you.... Look... Gorgeous!!!

Afraid to brush curly hair, here's why you need to.

Deep Conditioning - Coconut Milk & Aloe

This is great for dry curly hair...

1 part coconut milk - this can be seriously conditioning to the point of excess (I use a can, but you can make your own).

2 or 3 parts aloe vera gel depending on how much conditioning you need, it's used to dilute the coconut milk but also offers its own hair and luxurious humectant properties.

Add EOs if you'd like to the mix.

I prefer to apply on dry hair, saturating the ends, working my way up toward the scalp. I personally avoid the scalp completely, it's just too much going on and it makes me feel oily afterward.  Aloe alone is great on the scalp though.

Rinse thoroughly (I only use water).  Style as usual.  This concoction is pH balanced.

Source, although tweaked, and only used as a deep conditioner, NEVER AS A SHAMPOO!  No part of this experience is a cleansing one - this is so misleading - it is a VERY deep conditioner and my tweaked recipe makes it a lovely one!

Yellow Aloe? What's Wrong?

 Aloe vera contains two kinds of 'sap' that are used medicinally. The thick yellow sap that comes from the inner lining of the leaf is called Aloe latex, and contains aloin, a powerful laxative. It flows for a little while after cutting a leaf, and can be scraped off the leaf epidermis. It is also called Aloe juice. The laxative effect of aloin is primary reason why the desert Bedouin people of Arabia cultivated Aloe vera. It has been in cultivation so long that there is no known natural population of the plant.

 The second kind of sap is called Aloe gel, and is contained in clear tissue of the inner leaf. This is the part of the plant that is soothing to skin.

  Source.

No shampoo, why? (parabens, silicones & sulphates)

Shampoos contain parabens, silicones and sulphates, each which need to be avoided.

Parabens

Source: http://www.organicconsumers.org/articles/article_17679.cfmSulphates
Silicones
SLS

Parabens can be absorbed through the skin. They bind to the hormones in your blood, for some people this isn't a big deal, but if you're at a higher risk for certain cancers, parabens can up that risk. One study showed that out of 20 breast tumors that were studied, small amounts of paraben were found in all of them. Methylparabens (there are different kinds of parabens) may react with UVB rays, leading to skin aging. Parabens fall into a grey area, scientists can't prove they are safe, but there's not enough to make them say they aren't safe.

Here's a link for more info.


The problem I see with cleansing conditioners that contain silicones is that most silicones aren't water soluble, if you never remove them through washing with sulfates, they will continue to build up in your hair.  Those not using shampoo, but washing with conditioner only run this risk.

Here's a scary little trick, have you ever seen a lovely named ingredient called Japanese Honeysuckle?  Sounds wonderfully natural and good, right?

"misrepresentation involved in the use of Plantservative, labeled as "Japanese Honeysuckle Extract." It is a highly processed and concentrated paraben extraction that may or may not be contaminated with synthetic parabens where is it manufactured in Singapore. I am particularly distressed by the fact that so many companies are evidently using the latter version of "Japanese Honeysuckle Extract" and simultaneously claiming "NO PARABENS" on their labels."

"Silicones are synthetic oils. They come from "silicon", the naturally occurring element that makes up glass and sand. The first commercially available silicone, dimethicone, has been used in skin creams and lotions since the 1950s, but about 20 years ago, the hair care industry began adding it to shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in products. In studies, dimethicone was found to condition the hair and protect it from dehydration better than mineral oil. Companies have continued to create new and better silicones over the years and now there are silicones that can help the hair dry faster (cyclomethicone), target the most damaged areas of the strand to provide deep conditioning (amodimethicone), and even strengthen the hair (aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone). "  Source: http://www.curlynikki.com/2011/05/silicones-and-other-sealants-for.html

There are no natural silicone's. The confusion seems to lie in the fact that they are made up from the naturally occurring element, 'silicon' but it's heated and chemically changed, they are not in any way, shape or form natural.  Source: http://www.besthealthmag.ca/look-great/beauty/the-truth-about-silicones



Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (one of the common ones used) is one of the sulfate compounds that have the ability to produce a soapy and lathering effect.

Thanks to the heavy advertisement endorsement the consumers were hooked on to the product and the companies were having a time of their life adding this inexpensive material in the product which managed to not only add volume but helped in keeping the prices down as well.

Well then if the added SLS can keep the prices down and produce all that bubbles to cut down the grease then what seems to be the problem? The problem is that the sulfates don’t only cut down on the extra grease they take a lot of the natural and useful moisture from the hair and skin as well.

Did you ever wonder why your hair has gone brittle and dry over the time? Have you been blaming the styling products all this time for your unruly and rough hair? If you have, then the truth of the matter is that its not the heavy styling and heating equipments ALONE that cause damage to your hair and scalp, it is also this chemical which is present in all cosmetic shampoos, soaps and sometimes conditioners as well.  Source:http://www.aboutsulfatefreeshampoo.com

This post will be continually updated.

My No/Low Poo Journey

I started my journey with BS - I knew immediately it wasn't for me.  I went 2 weeks until I got my soapnuts order - loved it but needed more hydration.  Got a locally made argan oil infused soap bar, it was devine!  Left my hair sift, moisturized,, shiny, just awesome!  But... Then it got really brittle.  I became very reflective and realized I need sebum.  The sebum I'm brushing through my hair was getting stripped by the soap! So I realized it was just the crown of my hair that needed cleansing, and ever since I only cleanse my crown, its plain water for the rest.  But I still had brittle hair... I read something somewhere and realized I needed a higher ACV to water ratio... I figured go 50/50% and see if it works - it did!  No frizz and shiny and my curls started spiraling despite being brushed so often... Awesome!

Then one day I had to look really good for work and I panicked.  I took out my flat iron, said a prayer to the hair goddesses and bang!  My sebum moved like grease lightening!!!! It went from being stuck at my ears (ponytail brushing against the scalp) to about 2 inches past that.  I was oiling from my end to meet the sebum then brushing for a good long while.

I left it straight for a good two weeks brushing and oiling with jojoba oil and man!! My hair looked awesome!!!!!!

I tried to continue curly after that but Christmas came, I flat ironed and people raved about how great my hair looked.  Then I had an episode with baby puke in my hair and the smell lingering and I used low poo.. Ya.  It wrecked my progress by removing the sebum.

So I struggled to get it brushed back through my hair and flat ironed to help so I could brush and oil daily and I ended yo extending my washing to a 21 day cycle!!

I wash, wear curly for 6 days, flat iron on the 7th day and go straight for 2 weeks.

Now I'm using ahhh... I dunno... Henna, and with all that rinsing, I don't cleanse.  Lol... And I'm experimenting with shikakai for cleansing too.  The reason I can, is because my scalp produces wayyyy less oil that before.  The reason I can't comment much in the shikakai is with a wash, a henna and another wash that's 9 weeks!!! I have to keep a hair journal so I don't forget!!! Lol!

Brushing is the key, and finding the right oil for you.

Take a look at the desktop version of this blog and look on the right column for a table of contents - lots of great info.

How I Plop to Dry

I use a tshirt that is an old maternity triangle shirt with longer tshirt sleeves. You could try a long sleeve shirt too I guess. I don't roll... I fold the neckband in about an inch so it can be smooth against my forehead.

I place it on my counter stretched open, neckline toward me.

Fold neckline away from me about an inch or more.

Flip hair upside down, Center it (wet) over the shirt, and lower my head until it touches the shirt.

Now my hands are free, I take the tshirt sleeves and wrap around my forehead until the sleeves meet at the nape of my neck. Tie once.

Take the bottom edge of the tshirt, lift up so all hair is in, fold/ roll the excess until you can have that edge come up, over and around to cover the tie you made at the nape of your neck - holding those shirt edges, wrap around to the front of your head. Against your forehead tie once. Tuck the tails/excess under the fabric.

Admire your turban or prance around making pancakes with your wrapped bonnet!!! ;)

This is another popular method but I prefer the flat wrap n tie rather than the rolling. Have fun experimenting!!

Update:
The T-shirt (mine is thin) avoids frizz if the turban shifts at night.  It also allows for a stretch when tying it which helps it stay in place.  I need it to absorb water, evaporate, and nor move so my curls can dry exactly the way they are when wet.  Without styling products, this is a very important step for my curly hair and allows me to get volume on top.  When I plop, I define my ringlets with my fingers and carefully compress them head down using gravity to plop.  I carefully scoop in the sides too so they set perfectly and with volume.

Generally, even when I towel dry, I use a T-shirt, its absorbent and soft and avoids frizz and tangles.

Yogurt Conditioning

I used Dannon Oikos Greek yogurt—with 11 to 15 g of protein per 5.3-oz serving an excellent source of protein, while regular yogurt contains about 5 g of protein per 5.3 oz. Apparently the straining process leaves more of the milk solids, which results in a denser product with a higher protein level than that of regular yogurt.  So it was thick, easy to apply and as I added it to sections (about 6) I twisted my hair and separating the tangled  section to twist is just slipped into two without any tangles!  I had planned to leave the yogurt in for 30 mins but with hubby away, two kids sleeping I started painting... Ya!  So 1.5 he's later the thick 2% yogurt just felt like it wasn't leaving my hair - so I caved and used low poo to ensure I wouldn't be smelling like spoiled milk tomorrow!  Ugh! 

I avoided adding yogurt to my scalp, and avoided low pooing my scalp as well.  I've found with other deep conditioning treatments my scalp hates it and I feel all messed up for like a week!!!!

I must also say I've been ACV ing about every two days wearing NY hair curly and trying a but of WO...  Its not working, my scalp hates getting wet.  Thus my currently dried out hair needed a protein wash, to be followed by my usual straight routine so I can oil and brush my hair back into better shape!

Update:
Just woke up and my hair is suuuuper soft!!

... and fly away and although not dry, it's shiny and just not happy.

I'll flat iron it today so I can start brushing and oiling it again.  Too much WO this past two weeks - not happy!

Dry shampoo

Beginning no poo is hard.  It does get better though.  Its important to wait at least four full days between BS washes though, and remember to always use your vinegar rinse after BS.

Your hair is behaving the way you trained it.  If you were washing more frequently, you trained it to produce sebum more frequently.  If you can get through the oily days you'll train your scalp to realize it doesn't need to produce as much sebum because it isn't being stripped as frequently and the sebum production WILL slow down.

As well, if you're brushing with a BBB or bamboo comb, and scritching, massaging & preening (see files), you'll be moving the sebum from your scalp and down the length of your hair and hydrating your hair with your natural sebum.  This is by far the best way to handle too much sebum.  Using a dry shampoo is great if you have a big event or if you're dying to wash and just want to wait one more day to stretch your washing out past the 4 days, but understand that using a dry shampoo is equivalent to washing because it absorbs sebum (removing it).

Use a dry shampoo with caution at this early stage (in a salt shaker is easiest to apply to the toots) but keep some handy for those special occasions :)

Just like fingerprints, everybody's hair is different.  As women, our hormones fluctuate daily, our food intake and the weather, temperature and humidity all fluctuate hourly - all of this affects your hair.  We have to figure out what our hair likes ON it, when, and how much to make this no poo thing work.  We also need to recognize that our ends may have different needs that our scalp and adjust accordingly.

When you consider that in the 1800s a bath was a luxury.  Brushing ones' hair, keeping it braided, in a bun and most times covered were the norm.  It wasn't until the 1800s that we started getting creative with styling methods and likewise, brainwashed through marketing.

Having said that, what we think feels "dirty" or "looks oily" is really a socially constructed concept of beauty. 

As Queen Elsa says "Let it Go... " The oil never bothered me anyway

I'm kidding about breaking into song, but seriously, the lifestyle choice we make to go no poo comes with the responsibility that we have to pay attention to our hair's needs.  We use hand lotion... Likewise, we need to deep condition our hair - that's the responsibly part - listening to our hair's needs and fulfilling them so our hair can be fantastic and fabulous!

In the meantime, like the chicks in the 1800, brushing is a cleansing practice - no matter what wash method we use, and remember... washing less will train our scalp to produce less oil - a proven fact!